Two days across Wales off road by bike
There is already a suggested route across Wales from the border to the coast: the Trans Cambrian Way ( see http://imba.org.uk/where-to-ride/trans-cambrian-way/ ), which starts at Knighton in Shropshire on the border and finishes at Dovey Junction, taking three days.
I wanted to do a route that could be done in a long weekend, ie 2 days plus the time to get back to the starting point, and finished properly at the sea. Anthony, my regular off-road biking friend in Oxfordshire, was keen to do this and we chose mid May for the journey.
We started the modified version of day 1 of the TCW in Newcastle (Shropshire) and ended the 35 mile day in Rhayader. Day 2 then takes a different route to arrive in Aberystwyth 40 miles later. From there we took an early morning train to Newtown, then 15 miles back over the hill to the car in Newcastle by midday.
This was a great journey from English hills and the ancient border of Offa's Dyke, into the Cambrian Mountains. Stopping at Rhayader we continued up the Elan Valley and over the watershed before a bridleway descent down the Monk's Trod to the ruined abbey at Strata Florida, and finally joined the Ystwyth Trail on the old Cardigan railway line trackbed into Aberystwyth.
The whole route is cycleable (though we pushed at times on the steepest , wettest, loosest bits) and there is more landrover track than many would like; and some significant descents on tarmac where there are no bridleway alternatives. There are also some high quality climbs and descents, and a great journey over high remote hills which few people see.
Day 1 : Newcastle to Rhayader
for route see
..with views to Offa's Dyke running across the hill just to the east through the meadows of buttercups.
Crossing Offa's dyke , an 8th century border earthwork, in a rain shower
before dropping down to cross the modern border at a bridge of over the River Teme at Knucklas, and joining the TCW route 3 miles from the start in Knighton. From here the route takes a loop around the base of Knucklas Castle up a a steep track by the Heart of Wales railway from Shrewsbury through mid-Wales, with it's turreted viaduct.
Then the climb proper starts up a steep bridleway, heading west, to the green top of Wernygeufrom Hill.
Then on to the heathery tracks of the nature reserve of Beacon Hill; joining Glyndwr's Way over Stanky Hill, Warren Hill, before dropping down on a good descent across bare hillside to Tynbryniau farm. One deep hole in the track was at least 18 inches deep and a surprise , and I had very wet and cold feet for the rest of the day; but in general the going is good.
Lunch stop on Beacon Hill
Heading north out of the steep valley from where there is a descent on tarmac to Llanbadarn Fynydd on the A483, and it would be possible if very dry to ford the River Ithon here and head on up the lane opposite... but we took the drier option to cross via the bridge half a mile to the south. The rough track turns into a climb on a bridleway on trackless grass; hard going in the soft conditions after rain, to Castle Bank.
We stayed in the Horseshoe Guesthouse; where they have secure bike storage and were happy to help us dry out wet shoes and gear and we found very comfortable. There is also a pub very close by for a good pint..
Day 1 had been about 35 miles over some good country; and while we had originally intended to take some more off road options later in the day , we had both found this hard enough.
Day 1 had been about 35 miles over some good country; and while we had originally intended to take some more off road options later in the day , we had both found this hard enough.
Day 2 : Rhayader to Aberystwyth
for route see : http://www.outdoorsgps.com/route/show/266125_rhayader-aberystwyth-day-2-tcw
After a good breakfast and stocking up on sandwiches and pies, I called at Rhayader's excellent bike shop Clive Powell's , and bought some Sealskinz socks, in the hope of keeping my feet dry and a bit warmer (they worked). We left town heading west again crossing the Wye before taking the old railway track cycle-way, and into the Elan Valley.
After a mile we took the girder bridge over the Afon Elan , and headed up the steep bridleway to Fron dorddu. The sheep were just being let out onto higher grazing and they and their attendant dogs followed us up onto Carn Gafallt, and then some difficult navigation through heather onto a track through woodland to tarmac again.
At Llanerch Cawr there is a restored 15th century longhouse; the people lived in the left hand and higher end; the livestock in the adjoining byre.
The whole of this section can be avoided by sticking to the flat road Caban Coch reservoir, but it is worth the climb for the views and the descent..
From here to the Claerwen dam , again there is a choice of route; the left (true right) side of the Afon Claerwen is a rough and wet but nearly all rideable track; some of the puddles need to be avoided unless you are carrying scuba gear though..there is a road on the other side of the river.
The Claerwen dam is big and impressive when overtopping and confirmed that this part of Wales is normally quite damp, though so far the weather was much better than the BBC forecast had promised.
From the right side of the dam a rough road heads into the hills along the 6 long miles of the Claerwen reservoir. The going is good, and for the first time since Offa's Dyke we saw other people. Five men on scramble bikes roared past and disappeared into the hills...we followed more sedately.
This notice is at the junction with the track that heads NE over Bryn Eithnog , a route for another day.
From here our route continued further into the hills, with a real feel of remoteness and solitude. It fords the Afon Claerddu which was just cycleable, but could be a problem after heavy rain, before reaching the watershed at 450m, it would be downhill to the coast from here.
The track finally reaches tarmac near a group of six lakes, and we took a roughly surfaced road south past Lynn Egnant. Just beyond the dam at the south end a rough and boggy track ..
.. joins the ancient bridleway known as the Monk's Trod, dropping down the Nant Egnant. This is a good descent though boggy in places, and lower down there is a spectacular ravine, before coming out at Tyncwm, and two miles of tarmac...
..to the ruined abbey of Strata Florida. This is a beautiful and peaceful place and there were cuckoos calling in the woods behind. We looked at the remains of the abbey church and enjoyed a cup of tea in the warm sunshine.
Looking at the map we seemed to have 20 miles to go to the coast, and a choice of routes. We decided to take the road to Pontrhydfendigaid, up the steep hill to Ffair-Rhos and dropped down to Ysbyty Ystwyth, all on tarmac. Wanting to stay off road as much as possible we took the bridleway that climbs steeply due west up to the forestry of Mynydd Bach; from where good tracks dropped us out on the busy B4340 at Pen-y-Bont. Crossing the road a bridleway joins the trackbed of the railway, and this follows the Ystwyth valley downriver.
The railway was badly damaged by flooding and closed in the 60s, but recently reopened as the the Ystwyth trail cycle route. Unfortunately significant sections remain inaccessible but the diversions are on quiet roads and trails, and often follow closely the Afon Ystwyth. On this trail for the first time in about 70 miles we saw another cyclist!
It was getting late as we headed west and the small climbs were becoming quite hard ; so it was great to see the outskirts of Aberystwyth , and finally reach the sea and journey's end.
Day 3: Aberystwyth to Newcastle , Shropshire
After a good meal and night's rest we needed to get back to the car, and got the 7.30 am train out of Aberystwyth to Newtown. It is a scenic journey through mid Wales , crossing the Dovey estuary and climbing back over the watershed. It is a good idea to book bikes on the train as there is only space for two bikes. From Newtown it was a 15 mile half day over the hills back to Newcastle and the car.
gear
We used full suspension bikes ,hardtails would be fine and would allow the use of panniers. I carried about 7kg of spare clothing, food, and bike tools , spare tubes etc. in a small Osprey rucksack.
navigation
Of course you should carry maps and a compass... but I planned the route and navigated it using the excellent OS 1:50000 mapping on the GB outdoors App for iPhone (but carry a booster battery!) . Mapping for the whole of Wales cost just £9.99 currently.
On the more involved sections the new OS Mapfinder App allows the downloading of just the 10k by 10k squares needed for the route at 1: 25000 scale (iPhone screenshot as shown) , and this seems quick and accurate.
Lots of variations of this route would be possible.. so if you do it, enjoy!
Mick R : May 2013
